How to turn a photo or picture into a pattern

by Multiple Artists
(All Over)

Q1: Is there a web site that you can send a picture of an animal or other image and they will send back pattern as well as glass?

A1: We don't currently offer that type of service and may in the future. In the meantime here are two websites we found...

Stained-glass-patterns.org & Panedexpressions.com!

Or another variation of this question...

Q2: How to make a photograph of the glass pattern, using the computer?

A2: It is great to take an image and keep it as a memory especially in glass.

There is a software program we've used that you can work with if you don't have great computer programs or great computer skills.

It is Dragonfly's Glass Eye 2000 - read our Dragonfly software review. It has options to make your own designs and is a program we've found helpful since it is made for stained glass artists.

As far as a picture - you would need to scan this picture into your computer. Use the techniques that come with the computer program - art lines and colors.

You would need to add the lines in the picture that will be your seams.

You want to pick the best places for the seams - for strength but you don't want to compromise your picture.

Once you have developed the seams in your picture - then you would print it out and continue with the stained glass process.

If you are just starting out, I would recommend you practice with a program and try out a design that is simple. Then work up to your picture if it is more complicated.

Other programs that artist use are Illustrator, Photoshop, or other special software as these allow a lot of flexibility to create patterns and designs from photos, but they do come with a learning curve.

There are a lot of techniques and many different computer programs that could do what you're looking for.

There is also the ability to hire an expert to take your photos and create a pattern for a fee.

What is important is that you find a program that works best for you. You may also want to check out this article on turning stained glass images into patterns.

This is a topic we'll have to create a tutorial on in order to display it properly.

Here is some additional information we found from another point of view:

Ever want to do a friend's snow machine, quad runner, sailboat, motorcycle or truck or whatever?

One way is to use the image in the manual of the product, visit the manufacturers website, or contact them directly. Otherwise...

Take a picture of the item.

Turn it into a black and white image and lighten the image. Greyscale sort of thing. Be it by old fashion photocopy or by a program on the computer.

You will get an image with the main lines defined. Perhaps there are some lines that look as if they would be difficult to cut. Then add some natural looking dividers or smooth them out.

You have some very deep inner curves that you think you might not be able to cut?

You can always turn the item and take another photograph that would be easier to translate into Stained Glass.

Or you can add whatever is needed to minimize this. Or consider adding part of it as a 3D addition.

Example: wire around a piece of glass and insert it as a door open at an angle - or spokes or roll bars added as an extra. Often if something is too small to cut in glass you can use wire or tubing or mesh.

Be flexible in your thinking. I just used a copper pot scrubbie as the hair for a witch.

Keep in mind that you do not want what are referred to as 'hinge lines'. Hinge lines are basically a line that the piece would fold on if you attempted to turn it over - just like a hinge. If you absolutely cannot get away from a 'hinge line' then add a piece of wire to the back of the piece.

It is easier to turn the uncompleted piece when it is soldered on one side only, if you place a piece of heavy cardboard or thin wood on the piece and flip the entire thing in one movement. Now solder the back and add the wire to the seam where it would fold.

Something to consider is that a professional Stained Glass Studio uses different kinds of solder for different uses.

50/50 often used for 3D work or as a base. It will not round up as much but it melts at the highest temperature of all. It is excellent to use as an anchor to which you add the lower melting 60/40 solder that will round up nicely.

60/40 solder rounds up forming a nice bead almost on its own. If you use it over a 50/50 base it will not melt or 'bleed' through to the other side sort of thing. It also remains bright and shiny if it is cleaned with a neutralizer and waxed.

63/37 is often referred to as decorative solder. This solder sets up very fast. You can use it to add extra details to a project. Example when you want to build up beads of solder around a flower centre. Or if you want to add dots and pulled lines to a seam. It really really helps if you use a thinner tip on your iron when using this solder.

Lead Free solder is just that - lead free. It is great for anything that will be close to the skin or to food items.

Now Silvered solder is the most expensive of all but it has a silver component added to the lead free and it is amazingly bright and shiny when used for jewelry pieces.

An idea is to use lead free then top off the decorative trim with silvered solder.

Solder is now available from recycled sources. While this is adequate and often much more economical in this day of climbing metal prices, they are unable to supply the content of the alloy for the simple reason that the solder IS from recycled materials.

Solder that is made strictly for the Stained Glass Industry is designed with our needs in mind. It will flow well rather than being sludgy, it will set up well, if neutralized and cleaned properly it will remain bright and shiny for an amazing timeframe.

Remember - the recipient is going to be so impressed that you turned their favorite image into Stained Glass that they are going to not even notice or 'forgive' more than you will.

This was found on eBay from the cdnglasslady!

Please leave your own tips below if you've turned photos into patterns...